Bruisers BEWARE this Kevlar and Titanium Terminator coming through to Regulate.
I want to spend a few minutes discussing a watch that has always appealed to me, the Zenith Defy Xtreme.
As a late high school and early college student I used to take rides to Tourneau on 57th and lust after this, the type xx and the jlc master compressor memovox. Even with their discount I couldn't swing the 11,500 tag it carried, like far higher price point than most of his contemporary competitors.
This is had several different iterations based on the core design including mutiple tourbillon and EP Chrono calibers.
The then CEO, and head of design Thierry Nataf who revitalized the brand by applying their former core principles with modern design elements spared no expense in the production of these true to form Defy offerings.
It's clear that this was a successful design as so many lower tier companies like Invicta successfully ripped it off and sold hundreds of thousands of units to the masses and so many other brands such as FP Journe, AP, Roger Dubuis etc had success applying titanium and out of the box materials like aluminum, ceramic , carbon fiber, tantulum in years following.
This piece was an absolute lightning rod during the height of 2000s excess market madness. At the time the stock market was soaring the housing market and the derivatives that went along with it were booming and there was plenty of money to go around.
This watch caused such controversy with an either love it or hate it outcome. However, I think it was massively misunderstood and mismarketed, as the brand didn't have the recognition on the vintage side like it does now. The romantic appreciation and understanding for what the Defy was and is just simply didn't exist.
For people that dislike it and just don't understand the design I need to reinforce that the Defy was never about conforming to the normal parameters of what a sports watch was. Since its inception in 1969 with an octagonal case and a Gay Freres ladder bracelet the Defy always pushed the limits of the contemporary conception of a sports watch.
These designs over the years were always innovative, cutting edge and underappreciated. It's only now that collectors are taking notice of what an incredible lineup zenith put out throughout the 1970s in terms of design and quality of build. This is majorly due in part to the work me and Dennis have done for the brand over the years and the lurkers in the industry taking notice how the defy makes their 1680 submariner look like the dweeb in class getting paper balls thrown at them
One standing point for the Defy lineup was always that they were over-engineered, built to last and avant-garde to the max. The barrel case with lobster bracelet, the square case , the spaceman and TV case have been slept on for literally 45+ years. I don't think it will take as long for this version to be desired there's not many examples left on the market most of which are in poor condition from Japan.
My belief is that this iteration of the Defy was the last true progression from the past without being a homage like the current Snooze fest release. They will appreciate in price and they will become collectible in time. Last time we told you this was DeLuca EP which was under 1500 and now decent example over 7k. You're welcome...
Everything about this is just over the top,overbuilt, and screamed no compromise how do to make a high end sports watch as robust as possible.
From the horizontally brushed titanium outer links to the Kevlar pyramid style center links and it's black titanium case nothing feels cheap or that they cut cost. Money went into producing this watch and it's absolutely evident when you handle it in person. The play on the bracelet is superb it doesn't pinch any of my thick Italian arm hairs LOL with the offset center links. The bezel is smooth but has a defined hefty feel, and with the integration of the Zenith star as markers gets some style points. The dial being carbon fiber based with a semi-stacked machined steel plate design has incredible depth and visually isn't as "busy" wonderful in person. The red applied lume executed in increasing sectors from center to outer hand makes daytime legibility extremely easy.
You have to remember what was going on during this period companies like breitling and panerai were booming and the addition of a crown guard is so unnecessary but Zenith executed it very well it's extremely comfortable and doesn't have any interference on the wrist while in use.
Technically the specifications are excellent even being primarily titanium the watch has very strong wrist presence and a great feel to it. You know it's there but it's not overly heavy despite it's net weight being that of a modern ceramic era Batman.
As many of you know I have a successful new venture in the aquarium industry another passion project of mine like Hudson time and I've had a need for water resistant beater style watches more than I've ever in my life. It pains me physically to wear a seamaster everyday so I need some variety this fills the void.
This watch carries a 50-hour power reserve from its caliber 685 SX movement a 43 mm case size and the selling point to me 1, 000m rated water resistance, clearly needed to stick my hand in maximum of 18 in into an aquarium LOL it's all about excess.
Love it or Hate it, I think it's bad ass

Amazing write up man love the chronology to this piece